By René Harrop   Photos Bonnie Harrop

Extracts taken form the book Learning from the water with kind permission of René Harrop

1. Choice of equipment Rods, reels, fly lines, fly floatants, clothes, glasses and other useful items.

While a very slow or soft action rod will do the best job of protecting a fragile tippet when setting the hook or playing a large fish, it is not the best for precise casting, especially in the wind. Like many, I am charmed by the graceful flex of a slow action bamboo rod, and even a soft fiberglass or graphite rod can be a pleasure on simple currents when the wind is low and the trout are sympathetic. It becomes a different story, however, when wind, distance, and complex currents complicate the presentation, and the trout are large, seasoned competitors that can spot the slightest flaw in the offering. When the encounter is ruled by these conditions, a more assertive tool in the form of a quicker action rod will handle the most demanding aspects of getting the fly to the fish. With practice, one learns to rely on only the tip of the rod for a controlled hook set that protects the tippet, and the same applies to feeling what the trout is doing as it exercises every opportunity to break free once it is on the line. Rod strength also plays into the ability to apply pressure during the fight while withstanding heavy weight during the landing process.

A medium-fast 9-foot, 4-weight rod is my preference when fishing larger rivers with smaller flies.

A fine reel, like a great rod, can be a virtual work of art and worth every penny. One hundred yards of backing may seem excessive to anyone unaccustomed to big trout in big water, but I have experienced times when even that much insurance was not enough. There is no more disheartening feeling than to watch the final turns of backing disappear from the spool along with the agonizing reality that in this instance the fish has won the battle. On the Henry’s Fork and other wide waters, I capitalize on the full advantage of a large arbor reel, which has the capacity to hold at least one hundred and fifty yards of backing. And it is key to use care when retrieving backing and line onto the spool to avoid tangles or jammed turns that can disrupt the free flow of line during the next battle. Large arbor reels require the backing and line to be distributed across the width of the spool in tight, even turns that must be manipulated into place with the fingers of the rod hand. This can be tricky at first, but eventually it becomes an automatic part of the retrieval process.

Reel

A smooth-running reel with good backing capacity is the best insurance for successfully bringing an exceptionalfish to net. I am fond of large-arbor reels that seem to minimize tangling or jamming of the line on the spool. A reliable drag system becomes highly important when you are engaged with a large fish on light tippet or when it is more than a hundred yards into the backing. A cheap or poorly designed reel has no place in the serious fly fisher's arsenal.

Line

The belly of a double-taper line is its longest and thickest part. No one expects a double-taper to shoot with the ease of a weight-forward taper. But in contrast to its counterpart, which is specifically formulated for distance casting, a double taper is generally superior when line and loop control are the foremost requirements, and this is my choice for dry-fly fishing on moving water.

Advantages stemming from modern fly-line technology have been surprisingly overlooked by many who could benefit by specially designed tapers that conform to specific types of fishing. Performance is the bottom line on many western spring creeks and tailwaters where precise accuracy and control are as critical as any place on earthTrout in these insect-rich waters are not forgiving of even the slightest mistake. Correct line performance for thiskind of fishing is entirely different than when shooting long casts with a nymph or streamer. The prudent dry-fly angler will match his rod and reel with a line that will float high, mend smoothly, and turn over a long leader.

Though trout may not use the sense of smell to identify food, smell may act as a deterrent. Fly dressings with a natural base of CDC oil or other scent-masking agent help to conceal odors that can be associated with danger by wary trout. Caution in this area of deception is not unwarranted if one applies the mentality of the efficient hunter who gives respect to the full range of senses possessed by his prey. Trout and their food sources are inextricably linked, which means that both must be studied and understood if the angler is to consistently catch fish. The complexity of aquatic insects serves as fuel for learning, and that is what makes this approach to fly fishing truly special. No individual will ever understand it all, but many will give it their best effort. Boredom is nonexistent in an engagement where the will of both participants is tested to the fullest extent and the outcome is always in question. Enticing a large, sophisticated trout into accepting an artificial food item is an act of deception in the highest order of the art, and nothing in fly fishing is more satisfying. I use Scott rods, hatch reels, Airflo Lines, TroutHunter CDC Fly Flotant ( my formula) Simms wading gear clothes and other items.

2. Leader material, build up, length and knots.

Fortunately, modern tippet material is remarkably strong for its diameter. In the higher range of quality, a 7X tippet is equal in strength to what 5X would test as recently as the 1980s. As one whose experience predates that era by twenty-five years, I can say with reasonable confidence that no advancement in fly tackle has contributed more to our ability to bring a large trout to hand than today’s amazingly strong tippet material. Combined with hooks that seldom fail, we are better prepared to deal with a rampaging trout than at any point in history. Surviving the often violent reaction to the sting of the fly is frequently a small victory for an angler who has just hooked his first big trout. In many instances, there is considerable slack line that must be dealt with before the reel can begin to do its work. Keeping the line free of tangles as the fish makes its first furious run is critical in maintaining control of the tension during the precarious period before the reel can assume this duty. Trapping the line between the forefinger of the rod hand and the cork handle will enable the slack to be fed smoothly through the guides while applying enough tension to retain connection to the fish. Remember to watch for snarls behind the rod hand and use the free hand to deal with any problem that could quickly develop into a catastrophic knot in the line. Things become somewhat simpler when the fish can be played directly from the reel, but there is no time when complete concentration is not in order. I set the drag on the reel at a rather low resistance point and control pressure on the trout by keeping the line between the first two fingers of my rod hand. The small finger on the same hand is used to distribute line The rod tip should be held at an angle of 45 degrees or less when the fish is running, and dropped low to the water if the fish leaps, to prevent it from falling on a tight leader and snapping the tippet. When you notice the fish’s resistance weakening, you should apply pressure. The fight is shortened considerably if the trout is not allowed to rest even momentarily. Use a pumping motion with the rod to retrieve line when there is no force beyond weight to contend with. Lift the rod high to gain slack and retrieve line onto the reel as you lower the tip. Force the trout to fight the rod by holding it high and applying pressure to the line between your fingers, but remain prepared to instantly drop the tip and release line at the slightest hint that the trout might again bolt away. A lapse in concentration of even a second can spell disaster if the fish shakes its head or surges against a tight line.

Be extra cautious when the leader to line connection is inside the guides, as is the case when the leader is in excess of 12 feet in length. A trim needle knot coated with a durable flexible adhesive will flow through the guides without hanging up should the fish spook and pull out line.

The advantages of a tapered leader would come into the picture several years later, but economics and poor availability kept the commercial product out of reach. Like I did for many other tackle needs, I learned to make my own tapered leaders at an early age. And while no longer restrained by financial limitations, I have never stopped making my own leaders. Time and experience taught me how to control the performance of my personal leader designs, and I learned how to adjust the taper to accommodate a variety of fishing situations. Suspecting that the reason for my foiled engagement with that memorable trout of the 1980s could be corrected in future encounters, I began to reconsider a fairly long-held preference for leaders shorter than 12 feet in overall length. I have never regretted that decision. The main purpose of the leader in fly fishing is to separate the line from the fly. When feeding under the surface in deeper water, trout do not feel nearly as vulnerable to overhead danger as when rising to take floating food forms from a placid surface or when feeding in shallow water where the penetrating eyes and talons of an osprey or eagle bring considerable risk to this natural act of survival. While this is not always the rule, deep-water fishing does not usually necessitate gentle presentation or a concern for the movement or shadow of the line as it passes overhead. Therefore, an especially long leader or fine tippet is not generally associated with this type of fishing. The same can be said for dry-fly fishing on fast water where a broken surface makes a trout’s presence more obscure to flying predators while hiding line movement or shadow from above. In any of these instances, a 9-foot leader or a tippet of 4X or heavier will usually suffice. The game changes, however, when fishing dry flies on slow, clear currents or sight nymphing in thin water. The largest trout become so by resisting the forces that act to eliminate them. Among these forces is the human predator whose intent may or may not be lethal. On the Henry’s Fork and other notable waters in the western United States, trout receive near constant attention from anglers, most of whom release their catch.

Abilities derived from experience allow surviving fish to become adept at resisting the best efforts of even the most skilled of the international fly-fishing community. Anglers come here for the unique experience of pursuing only big trout that feed throughout their lifetime on a diverse menu of aquatic and terrestrial insects. Engaging these veterans on the terms of this behavior is an intellectual exercise that requires a distinct game plan for each individual trout. Fly selection must accurately depict the natural organism upon which the trout is feeding, but the challenge does not end there. Flawless presentation cannot be overemphasized for trout that can recognize the slightest amount of drag, and this is undoubtedly the most difficult problem to overcome. An extremely small tippet as light as 7X and very small flies can add to the complication of hooking and landing a trout of 20 inches or longer. Additionally, a careless approach or anything unnatural on or above the water near the trout’s position is almost certain to put an early end to any possibility of success. Succeeding in fooling a wise old trout is seldom the result of a single cast. There have been numerous times when I have spent more than hour of near continuous casting without spooking the fish but also without getting it to accept my fly. While small in comparison to winning the battle, there is satisfaction in knowing that I have made more than one hundred casts without alarming my adversary. This is not an easy accomplishment on a river like the Henry’s Fork, where a trout will often flee at the most innocent casting error.

Failure does not promote confidence, and this is what I experienced in early years as I worked to develop proficiency with an upstream presentation.

The accuracy and control of my casting was largely dependent on a leader of 10½ feet on the 7- to 8-foot rods I preferred at the time. With increased leader length identified as a distinct contributor to my progress, I entered a rather complicated phase of adjusting my casting style to accommodate the longer commercial tapers that were available at that time. Moving to a rod length of 8½ to 9 feet brought some improvement, but my advancement hit a wall when I tried to extend the leader length beyond 12 feet. Truthfully speaking, I had not found a commercial leader that would meet my expectation for performance in a length that would be of assistance to my effort. While I was accustomed to making my own, it would still require nearly two years of trial and error to develop a fully functional, 6X tapered leader of 14 feet in length. The leader formula is as follows:

.030/24″, .025/20″, .020/18″, .015/16″, .011/14″, .010/12″, .009/10″, .008/9″, .007/8″, .006/6″, .005/30″ Incorporating the smaller diameter of a 3- or 4-weight line with the longer leader contributed even more to my ability to make a gentle yet accurate upstream cast. Though far short of 100 percent, my success ratio with this angle of presentation reached a point of elicourse, proper leader design is of foremost importance in this respect, but it is important to know that not all fly lines will function correctly in turning over a long leader. An extremely short or very slow action rod can be somewhat problematic for anyone who is not proficient with these rod types. A medium-fast 9-foot, 4-weight rod is my preference when fishing larger rivers with smaller flies. In the wind I might go to a 16-foot leader by reducing the tippet length and adjusting the taper on the lower end. I frequently call upon a leader as long as 22 feet, especially when fishing the Henry’s Fork in autumn when the water is very low and the trout are extra wary. My usual leader length, however, is about 18 feet with a tippet of 30 inches. I like an 8-foot rod of similar action for smaller about 14 feet and then gradually increasing the length as confidence and comfort progress. I certainly understand and accept that some will never graduate to a leader that may be double the length of the rod. But I also maintain that most who can handle a 10-foot leader with reasonable proficiency will experience little difficulty adapting to the longer length, assuming they are fishing the right taper. My wife, Bonnie, is a diminutive grandmother who also happens to be a nonswimmer. By both necessity and choice, she mainly works the shallow edges of the Henry’s Fork and other larger waters we fish together. While not especially strong with her casting, Bonnie finds the majority of her very respectable success while fishing upstream using a 16-foot leader on a 5-weight line. A stealthy approach and deadly accuracy out to about 40 feet is her basic means of compensating for physical limitation and restricted mobility while wading. Managing a longer leader when casting is not actually taking place may be the most difficult adjustment for those unaccustomed to this setup. To avoid bringing the leader into the guides and the resulting delay in putting the rod into action, attach the fly to the guide that allows the most line to extend from the tip when the belly of the leader is looped around the reel spool. This guide may be very close to the tip when the leader is nearly double the length of the rod. In extreme cases when the leader exceeds about 18 feet, I am forced to bring as much as 4 feet of the butt section into the guides. I acknowledge that this can make things rather complicated when preparing to cast, but the advantages often outweigh this minor discomfort when a special fish comes into play.

Bringing a long leader into the guides is often unavoidable when drawing a hooked trout to within comfortable range of the net. Trimming the free ends of all knots as close as possible will help to minimize the likelihood of losing a fish due to the leader being caught in the guides. This especially applies to the leader-to-line connection and the larger knots in the butt section, which are most likely to catch in the guides. Coating each knot with Pliobond or another flexible adhesive will also contribute to a smoother flow of leader through the guides. Tying your own leader requires a selection of leader spools ranging in diameter from .030 inch down through the smallest size you expect to be using as the tippet, which is usually 7X (.005 inch) for the fishing I do. The sample formula for a 14-foot, 6X taper provides a general description that can serve as a starting point. Extension of the butt section or tippet will provide additional length if so desired. After years of urging, I am finally seeing some commercial knotless tapers that meet my expectation for performance in a longer leader. As is the case with all commercially produced nylon leaders, however, the tippet on these new tapers is quite fragile in the smaller sizes. This drawback can be easily corrected by replacing the original tippet with one of fresh nylon or fluorocarbon. While there are some who will discard the notion of a long leader as unnecessary complication, I am convinced that taking this step may be the solution for unexplained failures with wary trout on pressured waters. To progress as fly fishers, we must be continuously willing to put aside comfort in exchange for improving our skills. If increasing the distance between the line and the fly improves our odds of fooling large, selective trout, then I believe believe that advancement to a long leader is an effort worth making.

Most anglers who shy away from a longer leader have never tried a really well designed taper. Most with whom I have shared my own leader designs are amazed at the ease with which they can be handled. I recommend starting with a leader of upon its ability to handle any casting situation that might be encountered. In addition to a straight line cast upstream, reach casts and curve casts both right and left are not accommodated by weak turnover, which is the greatest obstacle to overcome when trying to formulate a long leader that is fully functional for dry-fly fishing or delicate sight nymphing. The problem becomes increasingly prominent in windy conditions or when a very fine tippet is involved. And this is what prevents the suitability of increasing the length of the leader by simply adding a longer tippet.

My longstanding opinion regarding the ideal tapered leader is that it should function as an extension of the line. Accuracy and control suffer greatly if there is any interruption in the transfer of energy between the tip of the line and the fly. I use Trout Hunter knotless leaders (my design) 8, 10 and 14 feet with improved clinch and blood knots.

3. Approach and stealth.

Casting to trout in thin water is a different game than many are accustomed to playing. A presentation made quartering downstream has the advantage of placing the fly in the trout’s view ahead of the leader. The downside to this strategy is the likelihood of bringing yourself, or the motion of casting, into the trout’s window of vision. Working from behind the fish with an upstream presentation shortens the necessary casting distance by keeping you out of view, but there are limitations. Even at close range, delivering pinpoint accuracy with a slack leader is not child’s play. With no opportunity to manipulate the drift with mending techniques or rod tip maneuvers, the cast must be perfect. The advantage of fooling the fish with the least number of casts possible cannot be overstated. A light, flexible tippet of 6 or 7X will aid the fly in following subtle currents and prevent drag. A happy fish is one that feeds without knowing it is being fished to. Drag is recognizable to a savvy trout and must be absolutely avoided.

The journey to fly-fishing proficiency begins with respect for the quarry and consideration of the survival requirements that dictate its behavior. As wild creatures, trout survive on instinct rather than cunning, and they endure to large size only by resisting all efforts directed at their capture. And whether man or beast, the enemies of trout are many. Few humans possess the fish-catching skill of predatory birds or animals because they do not observe or understand the prey. Although not assured to match the efficiency of wild predators, human trout hunters would do well to emulate their uncivilized competitors. Even the most productive water is not 100 percent occupied. Trout have habitat preferences based upon either security or food. Fishing water where trout are not hiding or feeding is futile. It pays to remember where a sizable trout is located whether you catch it or not. Studying the details of the location will enable you to recognize the characteristics of preferred habitat, and, over time and many encounters, you will be able to identify the most promising water regardless of where you are fishing. Seasoned trout have a knack for concealment, even when feeding on the surface. Looking only for serious surface disturbance is a mistake when it comes to detecting the rise of a significant fish. A trout does not grow large by wasting energy, and the slightest unnatural movement of water is often an indicator of something impressive underneath. Move slowly and stop often when searching for surface activity. Peer closely into shaded areas or near structure, where a rise can be masked by shadows or a natural disruption of the current, and store worthwhile discoveries for the future.

Working upstream is the best way to locate a fish before it sees you. And in general, the same applies to approaching a fish once the decision is made to go after it. Creeping up from behind will minimize the risk of spooking the fish and will usually reduce the length of the cast as well. However, only experience can teach you to read the complexity of the currents, which is necessary in determining the best angle of approach. This is especially true in dry-fly fishing where a natural drift of the fly is essential. Whenever possible, wading is the most efficient way to approach a fish. Experienced anglers never make a longer cast than is needed. Instead, they are very patient and deliberate in stealthily moving to a position that is ideal for the situation. Often, the cast is only the beginning of the presentation. Mending the line to lengthen or enhance the drift can only be learned in actual conditions and is almost always needed when the presentation is made from any angle other than upstream.

Sound wading technique not only helps you get closer to the fish without spooking them, but it is essential for your safety. Deep or deceptive currents must be recognized in all conditions of light and visibility if a soaking or something worse is to be avoided. Wind, rain, or heavy overcast conditions are familiar to every angler and are frequently good times to be on the water. Too often, however, these are times when the inexperienced angler becomes careless in his approach and blunders into water that holds trouble.

4. Reading the water.

Hunting trout in clear water where depth and current speed are moderate is a deceitful contest reserved for the patient, observant, and determined participant. Learning the habits of trout is a product of watching; the clues revealed in observation should dictate the overall strategy of approach, fly selection, and presentation in each situation involving a special fish. By necessity, a feeding trout must be monitored from a distance, but the object of its attention is a different story. Close-up examination is the only way of gathering the information needed to make a sound decision in selecting an imitation. Casual observation will not usually reveal the full picture of the types, volume, and position of food items available in the water. Neither can key physical characteristics of individual organisms always be accurately determined from a rod-length away. Minimizing luck in fly selection depends on a reasoned appraisal of which insect form is most likely to match the feeding behavior of an individual trout. The highest number of available insects frequently represents the most efficient feeding opportunity, with superior size of individual insects being secondary. For example, in late summer trout will ignore sparse numbers of size 16 Callibaetis in favor of more numerous Tricos in size 22. A feeding pace more proportionate to the volume of larger insects would indicate a preference for the Callibaetis. Many other examples can be cited in support of watching and thinking while on the water as opposed to making careless assumptions that are often proven to be wrong.

5. Casting ability which casts are essential.

“FISHING THE CLOCK” is a descriptive term for the ability to present the fly from any angle to a fish in moving water. Attaining this level of competence depends on mastering a variety of casting techniques that will allow you to effectively counter the host of obstacles that often present themselves. Of equal value is learning to determine the best position from which to present the fly and minimizing the length of the cast by wading strategically.

Prevailing over a wary opponent is dependent on perfect presentation of the fly. Learning to present the fly from a variety of angles makes a favorable outcome much more likely.

When given a choice, I prefer to make my approach from the side and slightly downstream from a large surface feeder, and with the current moving from right to left. A positive curve cast will place the fly in the trout’s window of vision ahead of the leader while keeping the line well out of view. This method of presentation requires considerable practice and is usually limited to forty feet or less. In most instances, the positive curve cast is executed sidearm with a tight loop and extra line speed that overpowers the cast. An abrupt stop of the stroke applied at just the right instant will kick the fly and leader to the left in a pronounced curve. With the proper control, the amount of curve can be as long as the entire leader or as short as just the tippet. This control comes from the tip of the rod, which must be fairly stiff in order to develop the line speed needed to make a perfect presentation.

An upstream wind can aid a positive curve cast, which can be delivered with less line speed but requires precise tip control for suitable accuracy. Too much flex in the tip will disrupt the aerial mend that allows the wind to induce a positive curve in the line.

An upstream wind can aid a positive curve cast, which can be delivered with less line speed but requires precise tip control for suitable accuracy. Too much flex in the tip will disrupt the aerial mend that allows the wind to induce a positive curve in the line.

A negative curve cast (left to right) is executed by bringing the line under the rod tip and stopping the power before the line has straightened. Drop the tip to allow the line to settle on the water in a wide curve.

A curve cast from a similar position but with the current moving from left to right requires a completely different maneuver if the angler is right-handed. Simply described, a negative curve cast is almost an underhand lob. With the rod held vertically, allow the backcast to dip slightly, and then sweep the line beneath the tip with an underpowered stroke that lifts the line upward and to the left, producing an upstream curve. Stop and drop the tip when the fly is in line but upstream of the target. This will kill the energy of the stroke and produce what is essentially an incomplete cast because the leader and part of the line are not allowed to straighten before the fly arrives on the water. Precise accuracy is not a general characteristic of the negative curve because it is often hampered by wind. However, with practice it becomes a useful tool for covering a sizable amount of water with a fly-first drift.

When the trout’s location allows an approach from the side or somewhat upstream, a reach cast is a fairly easy way of obtaining a fly-first presentation. Begin this cast by starting the forward stroke toward the point on the water where you want the fly to arrive; then move the rod tip upstream. The fly will travel on its initial path while the line follows the rod tip upstream. Quick snap mends that add slack and length to the drift will enhance the effectiveness of this method of presentation. A reach cast to the right is used when the current is flowing from right to left; the left-hand reach is used when the situation is reversed. As in all casts, adjust your line speed to the wind force and the distance to the target.

Perhaps the most favored presentation among anglers of limited casting skill is made from a position nearly directly upstream from the objective. And while it can be relatively effective, two negatives can come into play when the fly is presented from upstream. It is seldom that any trout will tolerate an angler’s presence within its window of vision, and it is never a good idea to allow the line to pass over the fish either in the air or on the water. This is especially true in extremely shallow water or when the angle to the target is close to being directly downstream where the line cannot be led far enough away from the drift line to avoid alarming the trout. However, I concede that there are times when a directly downstream presentation is the only option, but I usually assume it will be a one-shot deal.

A slack-line cast made downstream allows the fly to reach the fish before the line and leader. Approaching the fish and making the cast without being detected can make this a difficult presentation to successfully execute.

A careful approach is always a key element regardless of the angle from which the cast will be made. Clumsy wading practices inevitably spell defeat by sending trout warning sounds or water disturbance ahead of your advance. Each step must be taken with slow deliberation. Feel the bottom with each foot as you move forward, making certain of stability before placing your full weight on that foot. A successful stalk of fifty feet or less may take five minutes or more to complete, and it is here that many battles are lost without ever making a cast.

A downstream presentation becomes much more logical in water at least thigh deep and should not exceed a 45-degree angle unless absolutely necessary. It pays to use any obstruction such as a dense weed bed or large rock that can shield your approach and shorten the casting range. Bending low over the water will lower your profile and allow a closer approach than were you to come in standing straight up. As a rule, you should expect the cast to be considerably longer when positioned anywhere upstream of your objective. I consider anything beyond forty feet to be a long cast when presenting the fly to a surface-feeding trout. And of course, the difficulty of proper execution increases in proportion to the length of the cast. However, a long downstream presentation can often be accomplished with a cast that is considerably shorter than the actual distance to the trout. And this is undoubtedly what makes this approach so attractive to those of minimal experience with a fly rod.

It is not uncommon to witness some success from anglers who get by with a rather weak delivery of the fly that arrives well upstream from the target but also beyond the correct line of drift. The fly must then be pulled into the desired position by dragging it across the surface. Assuming it is still floating, the fly is allowed to proceed downstream by dropping the rod tip and feeding slack into the drift with a series of mending actions. Hopefully the trout has not been put off by all the disturbance created directly upstream. Because all slack in the leader is removed prior to the beginning of the drift, this technique is not reliable when the fly must follow the subtleties of a complex current in order to arrive at the target in a natural manner.

A much more precise and dependable way of delivering the fly from an upstream position is to use a strong casting stroke that generates more line speed than is needed to reach the target. Allow the full length of the line and leader to straighten well above the water, and then pull back sharply with the rod tip. This will cause the line to recoil back against the rod, and the leader will fall in loose curves to the surface. With some some time and a little effort spent in perfecting this technique, you will be able to efficiently place the fly where it needs to be and with enough slack to avoid drag. Using this method, it is possible to shorten the length of an otherwise long cast by depositing the fly on the water well upstream but in line with the feeding position of the fish. A series of crisp mends with the rod tip will allow extra line to be fed into the drift as described earlier. With the correct technique and the right rod action, it is not uncommon to maintain a fly-first dragfree drift for thirty feet or more. This is especially valuable in extremely shallow water where an approach to less than fifty or sixty feet will most certainly spook your objective. If the presentation is not accepted, always remember to allow the fly to drift well beyond the trout’s position before leading it away from the drift line with the rod tip. Strip the now submerged fly back upstream until you are certain that the motion of lifting the line for the next cast will not disturb the fish.

It is my opinion that the shorter you cast, the better your success, and the one angle most likely to allow a close approach is from directly behind the fish. For many anglers, however, a straight-line cast made directly upstream is intimidating despite its fundamental simplicity. I think this is because this presentation is highly dependent upon accuracy and does not allow for manipulation of the fly’s position after the cast or mending to improve the drift.

An upstream presentation is performed with the rod in a vertical position, and the stroke is made directly in line with the flow of the water. Aim the cast slightly to the side of the target, allowing only the leader to pass overhead. (The fish is less likely to touch the leader if the fly is an inch or two to the right or left.) Accuracy is more important than a long drift when fishing upstream. In slow water, a distance of two feet beyond the rise is usually sufficient to allow the fish to see the fly and intercept its drift. Faster water may require as much as double that distance. However, a fish that is holding close behind a surface obstruction such as an exposed weed bed may require that you put the fly literally on its nose. A tippet longer than thirty inches will hinder this kind of accuracy, especially when wind is a factor. Allowing the leader and line to arrive on the water before the fly will induce premature drag. This can be avoided by stopping the rod during the delivery stroke at precisely the right instant to permit the entire leader to straighten just above the surface, thereby minimizing the effect that wind has on the placement of the fly. Drop the rod tip at this point to soften the impact.

An upstream cast that angles across the directional flow of the current creates a significant increase in the difficulty of creating a natural presentation of a dry fly. A fly cast straight upstream will be carried in a line that does not conflict with the direction of the flow. Conversely, a cast made even slightly across the current will encounter quick drag as the flow pushes against the leader, causing the fly to move sideways rather than following the current directly downstream. A partial cure for this malady is to make a positive curve cast with a significant upstream mend. However, this technique can only be implemented from one side of the fish and is limited to a very short drift. A more versatile alternative is to use a check cast in conjunction with a longer tippet of forty to fifty inches. A tippet of inordinate length always carries the potential for diminished accuracy, but there are situations when this is the best way to go. A vertical casting stroke that keeps the line as parallel to the water as possible is best applied when making a check cast. Slightly overpower the delivery, and then stop the rod sharply as the leader straightens about four or five feet above the surface. The leader will spring back toward the rod tip and then pile in loose curves on the water with more slack than is usual. Pulling back with the rod tip will exaggerate the recoil, bringing even more slack into play if desired. The result will be a considerable delay in dragproducing tension on the leader as the fly drifts downstream. The check cast can be effective anytime a difficult current is working against you.

6. Entomology, what should we know.

As a young boy, I learned the ways of water and trout through observation, and my growth as an angler continues to be based upon this fundamental of fly fishing. As a self-taught fly tier, I recognized the importance of understanding the correlation between artificial flies and the food items upon which trout subsist. Using natural organisms as models for my flies began long before I had contact with books on aquatic entomology or matching the hatch. And I have been studying what trout eat for more than fifty years. For reasons I cannot explain, some anglers do not observe what is on or in the water before selecting an artificial. And while any fly will take a trout if fished for long enough, the absence of thoughtful pattern selection seldom results in sustained success.

Trout and their food sources are inextricably linked, which means that both must be studied and understood if the angler is to consistently catch fish. The complexity of aquatic insects serves as fuel for learning, and that is what makes this approach to fly fishing truly special. No individual will ever understand it all, but many will give it their best effort. Boredom is nonexistent in an engagement where the will of both participants is tested to the fullest extent and the outcome is always in question. Enticing a large, sophisticated trout into accepting an artificial food item is an act of deception in the highest order of the art, and nothing in fly fishing is more satisfying.

To understand trout, we must also understand what they eat, and it is impossible to know too much in this regard. Trout feed selectively in many of the waters where catch-and-release is a common practice, if not the law. On the famed Henry’s Fork, even the world’s best anglers are routinely humbled by wild rainbows of remarkable size feeding freely on a diverse menu of aquatic and terrestrial insects. Here there is no substitute for acute observation in selecting the correct fly. Often several possibilities occur simultaneously, but experience in analyzing feeding behavior will help in drawing a sound conclusion.

7. Rise forms Can they tell us something?

The subtle rise of a large trout to a small insect can easily be missed by those who expect to see a greater disturbance of the water. A splashy rise usually indicates a smaller fish.

8. Fly selection, size, shape, materials, which flies are essential, favourite fly.

I recommend the following list of patterns because I have frequently caught fish with them in situations where I could not clearly identify what the fish were feeding on or I did not have an accurate imitation. Recommended sizes are stated in parentheses in the patterns. None are intended to replace specialized patterns that specifically imitate known aquatic or terrestrial insects that are likely to be encountered during a short-term visit to the Yellowstone area. Neither should these flies be expected to eight patterns in this chapter in addition to a well-researched selection of flies that have relevance to the timing of the visit and the waters upon which they will be fished.

Black CDC Flying Ant

From the beginning of summer through its end, there is rarely a day that I will not tie on a Black Flying Ant when fishing the Henry’s Fork. And while there are numerous times when a breeze or some other natural factor can cause these common terrestrials to be the principal food form, their value is not limited by a predominance of numbers. On warm mornings, it is common to find a sparse scattering of winged ants mixed with an assortment of mayfly spinners and caddis that give variety to the summer menu. And though these ants are often outnumbered by their aquatic counterparts, trout seem unusually willing to favor the ant when given a choice. Although unproven in my experience, it has been theorized that ants possess a type of acid that trout find to their liking and that taste may play a role in their attractiveness. Unlike many insect types, winged ants are not subject to the limitation of a short span of availability, and they are widely distributed throughout the waters of the Yellowstone region. This means they are recognized as a food source throughout the summer months, and it is this familiarity that sustains the trout’s unusual interest in them. Because of their mobility, it is appropriate to fish a winged ant imitation at midstream as well as closer to the banks where the wingless variety are found. Except during the coolest hours of early morning and evening or on an unusually cold day, a flying ant pattern is a sound option on nearly any lake or stream I have ever fished, and it has come to my rescue on more occasions than I can count. Though I stock a range of sizes in my box, I use a size 16 the most. Winged ants size 20 and smaller can also perform credibly as a midge imitation, thus adding to their versatility.
Black CDC Beetle

Like winged ants, beetles are a near constant staple throughout the warmer season. Relatively weak in flight, their mobility is generally limited to a distance of forty feet or less from shore, but their appearance is no less exciting to trout than their more mobile terrestrial cousins. Other than during breezy conditions, you should fish a beetle pattern near lush streamside vegetation where the naturals congregate. A fat, squirming beetle is a familiar and tempting sight for big trout that prowl these areas in full awareness that an easy meal can drop to the water at any time. Highly conditioned to beetles as a daily food source, it is not uncommon for a trout to interrupt intensive focus upon heavy numbers of a different insect to accept a solitary beetle from among the mass. This inherent weakness for beetles is frequently called upon by river guides who need an option for clients who cannot handle the difficulty presented when trout are feeding selectively on mayflies or other aquatic insects. While far short of a guaranteed alternative, a beetle pattern has delivered many otherwise failed anglers from a fishless day. In the heat of a summer day when the water seems devoid of trout and insect activity, I often extend my fishing by patiently stalking stretches of open stream bank where shallow water will often reveal a resting but alert trout. Working upstream and casting from shore, it is possible to avoid disturbance that would alert a wary trout. In this situation, a beetle can be just as likely to be of interest to the fish as any other pattern. Presenting a fly in this condition requires a gentle and accurate delivery that can be enhanced with a long, delicate leader. Crouching low or kneeling will reduce the likelihood of spooking the fish with either your body or the motion of casting. Warm and bright conditions can send large trout to the shaded areas where beetles also find comfort. Occasionally, you’ll spot a rise in the shadows, but blind fishing a beetle imitation beneath overhanging vegetation can also be productive. And although difficult to always avoid, surprise should never result when a trout rises to a beetle.

CDC Adams Biot Parachute

Perhaps no single dry fly is better known worldwide than the Adams. This timeless classic has been modified in a variety of ways by many tiers, and I am not an exception in this regard. It is generally believed that the original Adams was originated as a caddis imitation, but when tied parachute style with several alterations of the materials, the Adams becomes a versatile mayfly imitation. Specific to none but suggestive of many, the CDC Adams Biot Parachute assumes a more accurate profile of a mayfly than the bulky overdressed creations we have grown accustomed to seeing over the years. A slender biot body creates a realistic impression of the segmented abdomen of an actual mayfly, which can lend a more realistic image when fished to finicky trout on slow, clear water. Parachute-style hackle in modest quantity duplicates the natural position of a mayfly’s legs while providing adequate flotation on all types of water. A vertical wing post of white CDC provides superior balance and visibility without sacrificing the correct wing profile of a mayfly dun. By trimming the wing post to about one quarter of normal height, the fly is transformed into a low-floating emerging style, which can be enhanced by trimming the tail about 50 percent as well. Most experts in the sport place color of the fly behind size and shape in the order of importance when imitating a particular insect. For this reason, I suspect that many trout will accept neutral coloration when the natural insect of interest is a different shade. And while often short of ideal, the subtle gray of the CDC Adams Biot Parachute has proven adequate in many situations when a closer imitation could not be found.

CDC Rusty Paraspinner (Trusty Rusty)

There is a good reason why the CDC Rusty Paraspinner is fondly referred to as “Trusty Rusty” by many river guides in Yellowstone country. Finding a fly that consistently produces day in and day out through a long season of guiding is a rarity for these hard-working men who survive by helping others catch trout. Most learn right away that while mayfly spinners are among the most common sources of trout food they also represent severe frustration for a client who must fish a low-floating imitation that is extremely difficult to see on the water. Developing an imitation that provides suitable visibility to the angler while retaining the vital characteristics of a mayfly lying flush on the water with wings outspread was made possible by a complete departure from conventional spinner design. It was Bonnie’s idea to incorporate grizzly hackle tied parachute style into the configuration of spent wings. The hackle is two sizes larger than normal and trimmed over the eye to form a fanned effect reminiscent of veined spent mayfly wings. Like the Adams CDC Biot Parachute, the wing post for the Paraspinner consists of paired white CDC feathers. Trimmed to only about a third of the usual wing height, the CDC wing post is concealed from view beneath the fly by the dubbed thorax and radiating fibers from the base of the parachute hackle. Though only a small white dot when viewed on the water, it is remarkably easy to follow the drift of the Paraspinner at common casting distance. Superior flotation from the parachute hackle and CDC makes this a suitable pattern for even the Madison, where other spinners disappear in the chop. Mayfly spinners are recognized by trout as a vulnerable food source due to their inability to leave the water. While the color can vary from species to species, no fewer than six prominent mayflies are matched in the spinner stage by a reddish brown or rust-colored Paraspinner during the course of the summer season. It is a color that is associated with food to trout grown accustomed to the consistency with which it appears on the water. “Trusty Rusty” has earned its reputation as one of the most reliable patterns for waters within and beyond the boundaries of Yellowstone.

Olive CDC Tailwater Special

The CDC Tailwater Special is a crossover pattern that bridges the visual similarities of a variety of naturals that fall into the general category of down-wing insects, from caddis to stoneflies to terrestrials. It was created to address the diversity of conditions associated with rivers that flow from lakes or reservoirs known to anglers as tailwaters. Tailwaters are typically prolific with populations of both trout and insects that exceed what is commonly encountered on many other streams. Current speed and surface characteristics can range from long, slow glides, through soft shallow riffles, to rushing stretches where wading becomes a precarious act. To be uniformly effective, an artificial must possess a degree of realism that will withstand the scrutiny of a seasoned trout in clear, moderate current while retaining the flotational capacity to ride a fast moving current as it bounces over a boulder-strewn bottom. The CDC Tailwater Special meets this criterion.

Black CDC Bubble Back Caddis

The CDC Bubble Back Caddis was designed to duplicate the elusive image of a caddis as it begins its transformation from pupa to adult. As a specific imitation, it is tied in a variety of sizes and colors to match an assortment of individual caddis

species, and its productivity during emergence is difficult to equal. Its value, however, is not limited to those situations where trout are interested in only exact imitations. During a quiet period on the Firehole, I stumbled upon a situation that revealed a broader application of the Bubble Back Caddis as a fill-in fly for times when I didn’t have a more correct imitation. In water warmed by thermal inflow, a sparse hatch of fairly large, dark midges had attracted the interest of several browns that enjoyed complete immunity from everything contained in my box of midges. It was of near desperation that I tied on a size 16 Black Bubble Back Caddis and drifted it over the first of a string of sipping rises. The trout took on the second cast, and I played it quickly to net. The process was repeated until four more browns in the 12- to 15-inch range had been landed, and then the activity stopped. Thirty minutes later, I spotted a solitary rise that showed discreetly against the far bank. Working my way into casting position, I noticed a few PMDs drifting on water unaffected by the geyser activity near the side of the river I had just left. Not bothering to change flies, I made a good cast that drifted only inches from the overhanging grass, and the trout took the little Bubble Back without hesitation. While never heavy, the hatch of PMDs continued for nearly an hour, but I never did change to a corresponding pattern. Apparently, the low profile of the pupa pattern was a close enough match to convince a half dozen or so browns and two rainbows that the fly was an emerging PMD. Since that memorable day on one of my favorite rivers in Yellowstone, I have come to rely on the CDC Bubble Back Caddis for a number of situations that do not include the very insect it originally originally was intended to imitate. Although I cannot explain why this fly will at times produce during a mayfly hatch, it is not difficult to understand how it can easily be mistaken for a small beetle or ant by an alert trout. Perhaps it is the compact form and its low-floating profile that suggest a generalized portrayal of emergence that bring a positive response. But for whatever reason, it is a fly that trout seem to like, and I fish it often.

CDC Lime Trude

The Trude fly is attributed to A. S. Trude, who was among the earliest anglers to fish the Henry’s Fork. Although now relegated to history, the Trude fly and its originator survive in what is now referred to as the Trude style of tying a dry fly. Described in simple terms, a Trude consists of a tail, body, and hackle, with its most distinctive characteristic being the wing, which is tied low over the body of the fly. Modern tiers have substituted white calf hair for improved visibility over the original squirrel-tail wing, but little else has changed since Mr. Trude first fished the fly early in the last century. Tied in a variety of body colors, the modern Trude is not a specific imitation but rather a suggestion of life and, therefore, food to an unsuspecting trout. This is especially true on quick, broken water where trout do not get a clear view of the fly before it is whisked away by the current. For years I had been skeptical of flies that most would consider to be attractor patterns. However, my resistance in this regard quickly ended on a June day of fishing with my friend Rick Smith on the Madison River just outside of Yellowstone. As knowledgeable as anyone on this riffled section of prime trout habitat, Rick provided a daylong demonstration with a lime-colored Trude that has forever changed my opinion of this historic fly design. I watched in amazement as he probed the likely holding water, raising trout after trout during a two-hour period when surface activity was nonexistent. Later during an impressive caddis hatch that lasted until dark, Rick continued to take trout at a remarkable pace without ever changing flies. Taking the lesson to heart, I began fishing a revised Trude featuring a biot body and CDC wings not only on the Madison but other waters where flotation and visibility are of primary concern. While not always the answer, the Trude has proven itself worthy of a place in my fly box. Usually fished during quiet periods on faster water, it has contributed to an extension of my productive time when I might otherwise have taken a nap. However, a case can also be made for fishing the fly during periods of pronounced caddis activity.

9. Presentation and drifts.

Perhaps the most underrated skill in dry-fly fishing is the ability to recognize the most advantageous position from which to present the fly, and then having the ability to effectively execute a cast from that angle. The least preferred but often most effective presentation is one that is made from directly downstream of the trout’s feeding position. While fundamental in the early years of the sport, the upstream cast has given way to a downstream presentation that requires less skill and accuracy to perform. Proponents of this method cite the advantage of having the fly precede the leader on its path to a feeding trout. While undeniably effective, relying exclusively on a downstream presentation is a self-limiting approach that frequently excludes a realistic opportunity at trout that will not tolerate an approach from upstream.

10. Upstream or downstream?

Casting to trout in thin water is a different game than many are accustomed to playing. A presentation made quartering downstream has the advantage of placing the fly in the trout’s view ahead of the leader. The downside to this strategy is the likelihood of bringing yourself, or the motion of casting, into the trout’s window of vision. Working from behind the fish with an upstream presentation shortens the necessary casting distance by keeping you out of view, but there are limitations. Even at close range, delivering pinpoint accuracy with a slack leader is not child’s play. With no opportunity to manipulate the drift with mending techniques or rod tip maneuvers, the cast must be perfect. The advantage of fooling the fish with the least number of casts possible cannot be overstated. A light, flexible tippet of 6 or 7X will aid the fly in following subtle currents and prevent drag. A happy fish is one that feeds without knowing it is being fished to. Drag is recognizable to a savvy trout and must be absolutely avoided.

11. Fighting fish.

Leading a big fish away from the heavy main current will reduce its ability to resist the pressure of the rod. Lower the rod tip and apply pressure toward the shallow edge of the water.