SMALL STREAMS 

The pursuit of wild mountain trout leads to some of the most beautiful, uncluttered, crystalline places this country has to offer, unspoiled natural environments, places where the air and water is clean, where eagles soar high in wide skies, where the only sounds and smells are natures own. Here a rudimentary sense of connection to the big wild earth will creep into awareness, where the seeds of a relationship with the natural world will flourish - these inspiring places are also uncompromising, where man is the intruder, where the earth works its magic …. if you let it in, it will run deep in your soul.

Before I delve into my thoughts on the various aspects of my experience fishing the small streams of South Africa, In case you are interested in finding out a little more of who I am and what drives my fly fishing passions, have a look at the link on my blog -https://callofthestream.wordpress.com/about/

I think it safe to say that we have all had mentors and been influenced by others that we have been associated with along the way. I cut my teeth as a young boy under the guidance of a close family friend, Uncle Lake, on the still waters and rivers of the Eastern Cape and old Transkei. But, my interest in small streams was later fuelled to a great extent by Tom Sutcliffe, our pre-emminant small stream flyfisher, Ed Herbst, and friends that I have fished with. 

My comments in this piece are based purely on practical experience much of it by trial and error, gained over many years. It included, predominately since the early 1980s, the high altitude streams of the KZN Drakensberg, Eastern and North Eastern Cape and Lesotho, some involving hiking into the mountains, camping in wilderness areas and fly fishing for the trout in these streams I call home - they are the tributaries, sometimes the tributaries of the tributaries of the larger well-known rivers. These are the blue threads in the tapestry of the contour map following the deep valleys and gorges. Here the contours are stacked closely together below the towering peaks of the escarpment. Places of natural beauty, clear, cold streams that rush and tumble over riffles, through pockets, cascades and the occasional deeper run or pool where the water slows. Places where you get the feeling that you are the first person to pass that way in a week, a month or maybe even longer. The trout in these waters are wild and any 12 inch fish is cause for celebration. The occasional 14 incher or rare specimen above this, is considered a trophy. It was John Gierach who pretty much summed it up when he said, “Your stature as a flyfisher isn’t determined by how big a trout you can catch , but by how small a trout catch without being disappointed, and, of course, without losing the faith that there is a bigger one in there.’

There is an infectious charm about the trout in these streams. They are wild and can be difficult to understand at times and just when you think you are beginning to crack the code, they often trounce your best laid plans. They tend to be spooky and have the habit of bolting at the first sign of anything weird looming over them and then at other times they display a degree of innocence and become raspy and aggressive taking anything offered to them. - having a kind of unpredictable split personality, not unlike some humans. However, it’s wise in these diminutive finely balanced systems, where the water is clear and the bottom never very far away, to slow down, plan your approach and always use heron-like stealth. Thought and caution will get you within casting range.

I don’t pretend to be some kind of expert on the subject, but rather share with the reader my thoughts on what has worked for me, and what hasn’t - its not rocket science. I don’t bother with being overly technical as Thomas McGuane put it in his book “The Longest Silence” referring to some who become pedantic about the smallest details concerning themselves about fractions of grams, “don’t let the tail wag the dog”. Having said that and before I’m hung, drawn and quartered, I do believe that it’s a case of each to his own and what floats your boat, without criticism of others.

My preference is to focus on doing the basics right and simply fishing as well as I can. I may not be the best caster or catch the most fish - I fish because I love to, the places it takes me to, the quiet and solitude it offers, the pleasure it brings, the people I meet and get to share it with and of course, the thrill of deceiving a few wild brown and rainbow trout. I have selected a few of what I believe to be the important issues that should make your experience less frustrating, enjoyable and successful. Always be open to learn from others, it’ll improve your game. Its not an exhaustive list of the dos and dont’s.

I have a fairly extensive library of books, many covering the technical aspects of fly fishing, and rivers in particular. Among those that are dog-eared and well-worn, not necessarily for their literary merit, but for the solid information they contain - ‘Presentation’ by Gary Borger, ‘The Dry Fly’ by Gary LaFontaine as well as the writings of Ed Engle and Bob Wyatt. But, it must be said that there is no substitute for honing fly fishing skills than time spent on the water.

Rods.

I have a forest of rods so I’m not going to list them, because each has a particular feel and merit depending on the stream I’m fishing. I do have a preference for slower, softer actioned rods on the mountain streams. They range from 0wt to 3wt and in length 7’0” to 8’9” both graphite and glass fibre. However, my absolute favourite is a hand-crafted Stephen Boshoff 3/4wt bamboo rod based on a Paul Young Midge taper.

Reels.

I have probably far too many reels so I’ll list just a few that I use for the rods mentioned – Sage Clicks, Hardy and Orvis reels, all with click and pawl systems, perfect for small streams.

Lines.

For these streams you will need only floating lines. I use both weight forward and double taper, but my preference for short, up fine and close casting are the weight forward lines. With rods and lines it is up to what each flyfisher feels comfortable with and suits his or her casting style. My advice is to try different combinations and find what suits you best.

Leaders, tippets and knots 

Are getting down to the business end and this is where you need to pay a little more attention. Although it may be argued that meticulously hand-tied leaders and I have been that route, will ultimately turn the cast over more efficiently, allowing for a better presentation, these days I’m comfortable with tapered monofilament leaders I must make the point that I don’t like any type of braided leader or connection for stream fishing. They just don’t perform well. They are bulky and have the habit — even in the best cast — of splashing and attracting drag, something you don’t need if you want to perfect deception. I use 9 and 12 ft 4X monofilament leaders attached to the fly-line using either a Nailless Nail Knot, or preferably, with a connection using the eyed needle of a C&F knot tool for splicing the tippet through the centre of the fly line, securing it with a touch of super glue as it nears the butt end and finish off the end of the fly line with a drop of UV resin. This is the smoothest option and my preference. On the end of the leader and more recently, I tie a 2mm tippet ring using an Improved Clinch Knott or otherwise create a small loop using a double Surgeon’s Knot or a Perfection Loop and then attach the tippet to this with an Improved Clinch Knot. I do like furled leaders especially those made by local artist and craftsman, Marcel Terblanche. 

For most situations I use a 3 to 4ft tippet length of mostly 6X, although there are occasions, like when I’m using sizes 20 and 22 flies or the fish are being a little picky in thin, gin clear conditions, that 7X may be preferable. The finer tippets are also better protected by the softer actioned, lightweight rods, especially at the moment of strike and while playing the fish. 

For attaching the fly to the tippet I use the Improved Clinch Knot, but I also find the Davy and Penny knots are easy to tie and have good knot strength.

Approach and reading the water. 

To begin with, let me say that the trout’s basic survival instincts focus on shelter, feeding and reproduction. The “experts” say that a trout has a brain the size of a pea. Now if there is such a thing as an ’expert’ and that is correct, then there’s not much space for anything other than what he needs to know about surviving. In other words, inherited instincts and learnt-by-experience stuff. Things like what to eat, what not to eat and how not to get eaten. Then, for a certain period once a year, his hormones scramble everything that’s in the “pea” and, to the exclusion of almost all else, it concentrates on reproduction and ensuring the perpetuation of the species. The point I make is that if the trout needs to store and recall information to do with survival then he is generally pretty sharp despite the alleged limited brain capacity. The trout is usually way ahead of any flyfisher in these stakes, so I’m serious when I talk of the importance of things like slowing down, observation, stalking and careful presentation. Remember these factors, because understanding them will enable you to decide on an appropriate approach and presentation. For example, understanding the different rise forms is important, it determines largely where the trout are and what they are feeding on. It will help with the choice of fly. Think like a fish, understand his needs, anticipate his responses and know what your fly is doing in the drift as well as how your actions will manipulate it to mimic the naturals. 

I usually wait until I’m at the stream before lining my rod and deciding on the fly. Stand back from the stream while you do this keeping one eye on the water. Given time the stream will offer up clues to help with you initial decision. it may be rising fish taking emergers in the meniscus or adult insects on the surface, terrestrials drifting on the current, a shadow or flash of colour below the surface indicating the fish are feeding on nymphs or rising emergers. Keen observation is a crucial factor in fly fishing and will give you all the information you need to fish the stream properly. And, not being in a hurry all the time can be as important as stealth. Don’t rush to get to the rising fish at the head of the run, there maybe a better fish holding in the tail, if you put the wind up it there is a good chance it will rush through the run putting everyone on edge and you’ll be left at the starting gate. Fish all the water slowly and stealthily working your way up. If you do it properly the riser will be waiting for you when you get within range.

Stealth.

Like it or not, fly fishing is hunting. It’s as simple as that — a calculated approach made up of a combination of elements such as the stalk, the cast, the drift and strike. Drab coloured clothing not necessarily full camo is recommended and as John Gierach put it “l eave the white straw cowboy hat and blaze orange hunting shirt at home when I’m going out to fish a small stream.” Stealth, short casts and a careful presentation of the fly are important. In fly fishing there are a few rules that are reliable enough to base assumptions on. Of course, there are always exceptions. In other words, you need to follow the basic essentials and then unravel the exceptions as and when they arise, like a doctor diagnosing and treating the symptoms. At the risk of being boring, I’m going to repeat one of the important, reliable sets of rules: take time to read the water, plan your approach, slow down, conceal yourself using natural features and bank-side vegetation, lower your profile and keep your shadow off the water. Forget about dignity, it’s unlikely anyone will be watching so get with the programme and start sneaking around like a gnome. Make use of available cover, shadows, grasses and vegetation, break up your profile and try not to stand upright in the sunlight. Remember too that long casts over 25ft on small streams are not that efficient — there is a good chance the line will land badly and it’s a given that it will lie across a number of lanes of current so drag is going to be difficult, probably impossible, to prevent. Accuracy is also likely to be compromised. Present the fly upstream of the holding area and allow it to drift or sink naturally into the trout’s window of vision. 

All of this is plain common sense, get used to applying these fundamentals until they become second nature.

Planning your approach

Is important and a crucial factor ahead of making the presentation. I have said it before but let me repeat it, fish all the water from the tail of the pool with short manageable casts, cover the water ahead of you. Then move upstream by taking a few cautious steps and repeat the process. These little critters just don’t seem to get used to anything unusual — you need to be thinking about this constantly and controlling your actions accordingly. Keep concentrating on what you are doing and change your tactics if necessary. Be ready to respond to the trout’s behaviour at any given time. Another suggestion is that if you have to change flies or tippet, sit down to do it, preferably in a concealed position. Your imposing and unfamiliar shape as well as your movements will put the wind up the trout as sure as the sun will rise in the east again tomorrow. Once you have covered the likely areas or disturbed a run, move on to the next. On streams it’s quite often only the first cast that counts — after that, other than the village idiot, you will find the rest of the trout stuck like gum to the pavement and impossible to lever from their lies. You can always return to try again later. I mentioned concentration, its important so take a break every so often, sit somewhere comfortable, have a snack and take in the view. Refreshed you will be good to go. There’s that slow down reminder again.

The places you will find trout are positions where there are changes in structure, changes in depth and changes in currents. Do yourself a favour and concentrate on these spots. If the trout are not showing themselves, make an assessment of the run and identify the prime holding spots. Search the bank undercuts, eddies, reverse flows and any quieter water. Drift your fly in front of and behind obstructions. In other words, try all of the classic holding spots. Cover the edges of the lanes of current, where the water cascades into the head of the run and don’t overlook the shallow areas and riffles before moving on. A good spot to target is where two lanes of current meet. A line of debris or foam usually easily identifies these areas. the trout know that these are food converter belts and watch for easy pickings. Sharpen up, because in this type of water, things happen at speed and takes are likely to be fast and furious. 

I have to work hard for the fish I catch, and then you come across that rare flyfisher that posses some kind of sixth sense. Without getting all mystical about it, they have the irksome habit of being able to take fish out of a pool you’ve just walked through, catching them in seemingly impossible places and knowing without any other sign, that a trout has mouthed the fly. It’s as if they have been reincarnated having been a fish in their previous life and posses the uncanny ability to think like a fish.

Spotting fish. 

Concentrate, look through the water rather than at it. Once the bottom structure and features become clearer, visually search for anything that changes or moves against the background, it may be a shadow or a flash of colour. You will find that once you have fixed a position to focus on, spotting the fish will become easier — your eyes will stop scanning the wider picture as they are instinctively inclined to do and you will begin to pick up on the subtleties of unusual movement, shadow and colour. 

Remember that being a little higher helps to achieve a steeper angle of view, which will reduce reflection and glare. However, this is a double-edged sword because it also makes it easier for the fish to see you. As I have stressed before, it’s critical to keep a low profile, so if you do move higher, try to do it in a concealed position. Apart from the benefits of eye protection, polarised sunglasses are a must if you are serious about spotting fish, as is a peaked cap or brimmed hat to keep your eyes in shade and to reduce extraneous glare. 

Wading.

 is to enter the world of the trout. It’s like a spiritual form of aqua-aerobics. The question you need to ask yourself is, “Should I wade?” There is a kind of welcoming feeling about the tug of the current around one’s legs and the cold water against the skin that concentrates the mind and makes one feel more a part of the fish’s environment. And when you feel right, you fish better — at least, that’s my take on it and confidence does help. There is so much that can go wrong with your good intentions for sneaking up on fish when wading, that ideally, in theory, it is probably preferable to stay out of the water, but in reality that’s impossible. Remember, you are fishing at close quarters in small streams and you are going to be on top of the trout most of the time. They will see and hear you easily, so don’t splash around. You will need to tread carefully, easing yourself into the water — the slow determination of a snail comes to mind. Purely from a practical view, I prefer to wade in a pair of lightweight, quick drying, long pants rather than having to worry about ripping an expensive pair of waders — something that happens easily up in the mountains. 

Once you are in the water, act like the snail I’ve mentioned. Take small deliberate steps, edge your way along and use more of a kind of sliding shuffle, feeling each foothold carefully before shifting your weight. Whatever you do, don’t cast and step at the same time, this can be a recipe for disaster. 

Casting.

When it comes to casting , if you are anything like me, seek the help of someone proficient at it who can teach you the three most important aspects of stream fishing: to reduce or preferably, eliminate false casting, how to put slack into the presentation and ways to mend line to counteract that nemesis of all river flyfishers, drag. There are enough books around on casting techniques to fill the village library, but all of this literature — no matter how graphic the explanations — is no substitute for hands-on instruction. It doesn’t end there, you need to practice, practice and practice some more, preferably on the river.

Today’s modern flyfisher is, for whatever reason, geared to distance casting and sometimes his prowess is judged on it. Forget it, because on small streams you will seldom need to present the fly beyond a distance of 30 to 35 feet, and that’s pushing it. Having too much line out is going to result in the likelihood of a poor presentation - remember, it’s the stalk and short accurate casts that are best on small streams.

The roll cast is particularly effective on this type of water and avoids the need for false casting. It helps especially in tight situations and when there is no room for a back cast. 

Then to avoid drag you need to do two things: create some slack in the leader as you present the cast, and then mend the belly of the line. It will be useful to learn casting techniques such as Pile and Parachute casts, various Curve and Arial mends. I use them all, but my advice is to get someone experienced to show you in practice, the finer detail.

High-sticking.

Is something you need to be au fait with if you want to get with it on small streams. These techniques are especially effective where you are fishing confined pocket water, fast flowing sections and over shallow rapids, which is most of the time on these streams. After the cast, lift the rod tip high, keeping just the leader or part of it on the water. Follow the drift of the fly with the rod tip and you will get a good drag free drift. In this way you will also avoid having the current pull the belly of the line at a different speed to the leader and fly. 

Movement.

Is a key element of presentation. “Giving life to the fly” is something you need to think about while the fly is in the drift. By lifting or twitching the rod tip or jerking the fly-line, you can impart movement to the fly, making it act and appear different to all the other bits and pieces drifting past. Movement — and I’m talking about small twitches, not stripping the fly across the surface — will, in most cases, attract the attention of the trout. Remember, trout are well-evolved predators that have to find food in a competitive environment, so any imitation drifting naturally with recognisable features, will more than likely be inspected closely. After pricking the curiosity of the trout, you need to persuade him to take the final step — movement usually provides the trigger. It’s worth mentioning Leonard Wright’s “three tumbler-lock” theory. It goes like this: when a fly drifts into the trout’s window of vision, it will notice a familiar shape, size, and perhaps even the colour — it looks different to the inanimate twigs, leaves and other debris. The first tumbler clicks into position. You now have the trout’s attention and he watches more closely, identifying certain recognisable features like the wings, legs or tail — tumbler number two clicks into place. The third tumbler clicks into place when the flyfisher gives the fly a twitch. 

At this point the trout’s mind is made up that this is not just something recognisable, but something that’s alive. The next response needs no explanation except to say it’s what we set out to do in the first place — deceive the trout

The late Leonard Wright was the author of 11 books, but it was his first, Fishing the Dry Fly as a Living Insect — in which he articulated the “three tumbler” theory — for which he will be remembered. While fishing his beloved Neversink River in New York state, he noticed that the egg-carrying female caddis would land on the river surface and then scoot upstream with a sudden dart, probably using the force of the current to help release the eggs. He called this movement “the sudden inch” and it was the trigger for slashing strikes. The caddis that drifted downstream without this movement were often ignored. Wright tied exact imitations of these caddis and started to cast them downstream to rises before twitching them upstream to mimic "the sudden inch”. This was the key to an increase in his catch rate and led to a greater understanding of the role that movement can play in prompting fish to strike. As the late Lee Wulff so succinctly summed it up in this context, “Movement is life”. 

The strike.

on these streams is a gentle but firm lift in response to the trout’s tug or movement of the indicator. It took me a while to get it right, because there is almost always a natural reaction to jerk the rod up sharply in that split second when you feel a fish on the end of your line, but there is no need for a heavy-handed strike with the fish in these waters. If you do strike hard, you will often pull the fly out of the trout’s mouth — especially with a take on a dry fly. Concentration and expectancy is needed for this kind of control and, for that matter, for most of what you will be doing on a small stream. 

Catch and release.

Is supported by the majority of flyfishers today and many riparian owners are recognising the benefits of making it one of their rules. It’s a practice I subscribe to and encourage, but I wouldn’t be honest if I did not admit to taking a few trout for the pan when the rules allow it, especially when camping out in the mountains. When I do decide to keep a fish, I make the decision early and dispatch the unfortunate trout immediately it is in hand with a sharp blow to the top of its head, just behind the eyes. I do this even before removing the hook so as to make it as quick and humane as possible. 

Flies and fly-tying.

There are literally thousands of flies to choose from, and many people — far better anglers than I — take pride in knowing exactly what they are intended to imitate and also the Latin names of all the insects, it wont help them to catch more fish. However, it is important to be able to identify the difference between the insects, their common names and the various stages of their life cycle. It will ultimately help in design and choice of fly. Some are intended to imitate insects and others are designed to trigger the ever-present predatory instincts of the trout. The insects in our waterways come down to a handful of small aquatic and terrestrial insects. I favour a few generic patterns that cover a range of insects and which are tied with soft, flexible and barred materials that move or give a perception of movement in the water — a key trigger for the predatory instinct of the trout. The insight gained from a careful study of the recognisable features of the insects and developing an understanding of their habits, will enable the flyfisher create reasonable representations. Whilst some fly-tyers aspire to exact imitations and I admire their creative ability, and fly tying skills I have found that it is not necessarily the recipe for success — the fly should rather be simple in design, but representative in general shape with distinguishing features, colour and size. However, having said that, the ones I use have proved their effectiveness over time and all represent one or another of the aquatic and terrestrial insects found in and along the local mountain streams. Generally sizes 14 and 16s are my go to sizes all barbless, but for when they are needed, size 18s down to 22s can make a difference. 

In the fine, clear waters of our streams, it has been my experience that the trout are seldom shy about rising to take flies drifting on or just below the surface. I think this has a lot to do with the fact that in these waters food is a little scarce and competition fierce. Because of this the trout will have a close look at anything resembling a bug, even if it means rising to the surface which, in these streams, is never that far away. 

Dry flies on small streams are, without question, my favourites. Some of my favourite dries consist of Mayfly Spinners, Adams with both parachute and conventional hackles. RAB and Para-RAB (local flies – Youtube videos available on the internet), Elk Hair Caddis,Giffiths Gnat and Klinkhamers. I like the dries to float low on the surface, preferably in the surface film and for this I like parachute flies and sometimes trim the flies with conventional dry fly hackles below the shank to achieve this. It is while they’re in this state that the naturals are at their most vulnerable — as they emerge from their nymphal shuck and attempt to free themselves from the tension of the surface film. The trout know this and watch for the easier pickings of struggling insects rather than those already on the surface ready to fly. 

Terrestrials like the Wolf Spider, beetles, hoppers and ants have a permanent spot in my fly box. All of these flies display silhouettes that are likely to provoke a response from the trout based on instinct and familiarity with ever-present food forms. Importantly, don’t overlook the drowned versions of the terrestrial patterns. Research by well-known American flyfishers as well as practical experience locally, show that terrestrials fished sub-surface are often more effective than their high floating counterparts. I never leave for the mountains without both floating and sinking versions of the same flies.

I generally treat the dry flies soon after tying with Watershed, but carry Loon Aquel or Lochsa on the stream for quick application if additional floatant is needed. 

Nymphs have a place in my fly box, but are limited to just a few in different weights and sizes like the Gold Ribbed Hares Ear with a red collar, Flashback, PTN, Zak and the GUN. The latter two are local flies and fly tying Youtube videos are available on the internet. 

The flies I’ve included are not an exhaustive list of flies that I use, simply because I’m constantly attempting new patterns or experimenting with modifying old patterns, I suppose in the hope that one day I might stumble upon the perfect fly — an unlikely event considering the fickleness of trout. 

Lighten the load. 

Some years ago I ditched the traditional fly vest with enough pockets to include the kitchen sink. There bits-n-pieces in there that I didn’t know I had and what they were for. I now use a Filson belt pack for the essentials and a small 10L backpack for a few extras and snacks and drinks for the time on the water. Have a look at my blog for more information -https://callofthestream.wordpress.com/2019/05/31/the-bare-essentials/

Conclusion.

I have only just scratched the surface of a subject with many variations and techniques, but hope that you will find my thoughts useful when you’re next on a mountain stream or river somewhere. In my view, one of the most absorbing and fascinating aspects of this wonderful pastime of ours is that it allows for so much flexibility based on your own streamside experiences and the insights gained. My advice, for what it’s worth, is stick to what is simply a common sense, no frills approach, but remain open minded and be creative. The key elements are to watch and take note of what’s going on in and around the stream, think about what approach to use, about your fly choice and decide on the type of presentation. Through trial and error you will, over time, develop the necessary experience and skill.Be open to learning from others.