CLOTHING

When it comes to waders and wading boots, anglers have high expectations of their gear. We expect waders to be 100% waterproof, without condensation and with good durability. I can understand that because of the high and ever increasing prices. The durability comes down to the fishing style, as fishing for trout for instance often demands more bushwhacking than salmon-fishing.

As mainly a trout hunter I have tried different brands over the years, but at the moment I use Guideline Alta Sonic Tizip waders. The prices are less than other brands but the last two seasons I have been wearing them, I can say that I am satisfied. The zipper makes a big difference when nature calls and you have to take a leak. I have to emphasize that I am not an ambassador for any brand at the moment.

My conclusion from the last few seasons is that waders and wading boots are expendables and I have come to terms with the fact that I have to buy new clothing every 3-5 years. That said, I spend a lot of time fishing, so they could last longer for most anglers. My tip would be to buy large enough waders. If they’re too tight it will cause a lot of stress on the seams, and let’s face it… they won’t look sexy no matter how hard you try.

RODS, REEL AND LINE

There is an ocean out there of excellent flyfishing rods and I think a lot has happened when it comes to development of strength, action and casting properties, but no revolution though. I think the development of lines has been more significant.

I prefer #4 or #5 rods as all-round for my trout-fishing with dry flies. The rods on the market today are all very good and I think it all comes down to the anglers' skills and technique to catch the rising fish.

I like to use different rods, from Guideline NT8, Guideline Reaction and Hardy Wraith to mention a few, it all comes down to my mood I guess. The choice of line is more important I think, and depends on the individual situation. In spots with little vegetation I prefer a line with a long belly as it is easier with longer casts and delicate presentation of the fly, for instance SA trout amplitude or Guideline Experience. But in places where the vegetation is close to the riverbank I prefer lines with short belly for easier control of spey casts and snake rolls. In these situations last season I used Guideline Tactical or Fario... Those have 8-10 meter bellies.

I always use quite long leaders like Hends Camou 450cm (15') with a micro ring at the tip. I have tried a whole lot of different tippets but my preferred brand now is Soldarini Competition or Trout Hunter in 7X to 4X mostly.

I found those to be very strong, but the crucial part in playing a fish is the Hends Camou's ability to stretch plus the action of the rod. I allow myself to use thinner tippet if I use a slower and less aggressive rod.

Generally, I think the reel is the least important part of the set up. Personally I love the vintage Hardy Reels and a St George from 1974 is my pet right now. It is a little heavy but I think it gives a good balance to the rods I currently fish with.

APPROACH AND CASTING

When I come to a new spot or a pool, I like to observe for a while. I try to figure out the insects on the surface, the currents and eddies that give a natural flow of food for the fish. I try to think like a trout. It all comes down to energy economics where the fish have easy access to a lot of sustenance, spending as little energy as possible. Then if you are lucky enough you might get a chance of choosing the largest fish rising.

When fishing with dry flies I prefer to approach the fish from downstream and up or a 45 degree angle from downstream. Very rarely from an angle more than perpendicular to the rise. The type of cast I prefer is, at all times, the easiest cast I can manage depending on surrounding vegetations and weather conditions.

Spey cast and snake roll or roll cast for tight situations. I actually prefer an aerial snake roll as I think a dry fly gets less wet than a regular snake roll, giving a better imitation of a dry fly than a wet and heavy dry fly.

FLY SELECTION AND PRESENTATION

I remember when I was new in the game, I went all in and learned a lot about aquatic insects and I don't regret that. But over the years I think anglers tend to make the topic of entomology more complicated than it needs to be. I tie all the flies I use myself and the amount of different flies have become slim. In my opinion unless someone really loves the art of flytying, the most important properties with flies are the profile and footprint they make on the surface and sizes. And of course the presentation of the fly is essential. I think colors are less important.

Of course, there are some really selective fish at times and they can require a lot of different flies on the tippet but this also makes it really special when they finally rise for your fly. Changing size in these occasions might do the trick.

Presentation of the fly is really important, it is crucial to success. It is beneficial to know the different casts that can give long dead drifts of the flies and controlled movements of the flies in the right moments, keeping in mind that deeper and slower waters give larger windows for fish to spot the imitation than shallow and rapid currents where the fish need to make a decision in a split second.

FIGHTING AND PLAYING THE FISH

Hooking the fish is the ultimate goal. For me the take is the climax. Fighting the fish and landing it in the net is more of a bonus. The larger the fish the more the desire to land it of course. I think the key to success here is that you have a slow rod, a leader that is flexible as mentioned above and proper line control and contact with the fish, especially if using a barbless hook. If the fish goes for a long run, the tension of the setup increases and it is smart to follow to decrease the length of the line in the water. A jumping fish is hard to control and I think we have all experienced a fish that “spit” the fly in these moments. A trick here is to give slack in the line by moving the rod in a forward motion.

When the fish is in the net, I make sure my hands are wet, handling the fish gently and a quick photo before release as soon as possible. Most fish survive a gentle handling and a swift photo before release.

LATE WINTER AND EARLY SPRING

In Norway it is not that common to flyfish in late February, March and April for brown trout. At least not with dry flies. But it is possible in some rivers. The rod set up is the same as mentioned above.

When I look at the map, I look for places where there is a hydro power plant. The water there has a stable temperature and better condition for a few insects. As soon as the temperature is on the plus side the midges start to hatch and even if the water is still cold, you can find trout feeding on them.

Flies of choice are midges in all developing phases from larvae, pupae, hatching midges and adult midges. Different variations of buzzers, palmer and CDC midges are well proven and can be used throughout the season. In March and April, the first stoneflies are hatching on the ice and snow close to the river bank, and with a little wind, they crash into the water. A size 12 CDC stonefly is my choice then. The take in cold water is often very subtle and to set the hook you have to lift the rod calmly.

The fish might not be the largest this time of the year but the feeling of a hooked trout on a dry fly in March is incredibly satisfying as it feels like a loooong winter has come to an end.

Being a medical doctor I believe being outdoors is very healthy and it is evidence based that fishing stimulates the reward pathway in the mesolimbic dopamine system in the brain. My advise is to get out there and use nature, just give it the respect it deserves. Don't leave garbage.

If any of you is interested I have an instagram account where I share flyfishing pics and vids.

Feel free to visit @kimsandli on IG, (theflyfisher.no on youtube as well)